We spent our first evening (June 24) in Ireland in Waterford. It was cold and drizzly so the only exploring we did was to walk up the street to find an ATM (or "hole in the wall" as I heard it referred to by locals).

We stayed at Dooley's Hotel in Waterford which was reminiscent of the hotel in "Fawlty Towers." Again, we found ourselves with one slow lift and forty people with bags so we opted for the stairs. We went up one flight of stairs and then down a half a flight to get to our room. It didn't make the most sense but it served as a great photo.

We were lucky in that all our hotels had hair dryers. The challenge might just be finding them. In most hotels, we found the dryers in the desk drawer. In Waterford and Killarney, we had these:

I was so excited when I saw these hair dryers that I had to knock on Mom's door to ask if she'd noticed the hair dryer yet. I should point out that you'll notice that in almost every picture of me, I've got my hair pulled up. My flat iron didn't work with the electric converter so I would only blow dry my hair in the morning. I've always said (because it's true) that I have stick straight hair. I think it's developed a little wave as I've gotten older but living where there is no humidity, I never see it. I really just needed to go to Ireland. The day we spent at Bunratty Castle, when it was raining all day, I ended up with big full wavy hair--very unlike my normal straight 'do. And very amusing to Mom and me (I'm not sure anyone else knew to notice my big hair).

We had dinner at the hotel that evening and our bus driver, Danny, sat next to Paul. I think Danny took a bit of a liking to Paul. Actually, I think Danny liked pretty much everyone except our tour guide, Linda. He didn't think she was worth much. I'll agree that she wasn't a great guide. There are probably worse but I know there are better. She got the job done and that was about all she did. But that's a story for another time. Paul and I chatted with Danny for a bit after dinner. We could catch about half of what he was saying (although I think that improved to 2/3 by the time we left). He'd tell us jokes and we'd start laughing not because we understood the punch line but because Danny was so pleased with the joke himself. For some reason, we got on the discussion of beers so Danny took us over to the pub and ordered a pint and a half for us of bitter (Smithwick's). It was very good but I didn't know why he only ordered me a half pint. Do I look like a girl who only drinks half pints? I think not. He said it was because only "scruppers" or some such slang drink pints. Girls look more dainty about it. Paul and I were laughing that Coors Light was on tap in the pub in Waterford. We had to explain to Danny that it's not thought of as great beer in America either--it gets the job done but just barely.

We didn't spend any real time in Waterford beyond going to the Waterford Crystal Factory. That was pretty amazing--I understand a bit better as to why it costs so darn much.

The tour is interesting because you're walking through the actual factory watching the craftspeople work and seeing the actual stuff that is used to make the various pieces of crystal.

I was able to catch a little 15-second clip of the craftsmen putting the handle on a pitcher (and I was very cautious not to speak while filming this.)
But if the piece doesn't live up to standards, they just pitch it in here. I'm sure some of these pieces would have been just fine with me.

At the end of the tour, there is a room where some of the master craftsmen give a demonstration of the cutting techniques and can answer any questions.

Then, of course, there is the showroom where you can buy just about any type of Waterford you can imagine.

And crystal goblets that are as big as me are on display. Funny thing about that there glass--it wasn't mounted down so I moved it a little. I had this image of how much you-break-it-you-buy-it would cost so I moved very carefully away.

You can always tell who has the camera. For example, this picture here. I probably would have taken a picture of the pretty little house on the road next to where we were stopped. Paul (and Mom too, apparently) thought the Irish road crew was more interesting.

From Waterford, we went to Blarney.

Us in front of the castle. Everyone asked if I bought my coat in Ireland but it's actually a super-duper clearance item from Ann Taylor Loft bought for my trip to Ireland. I'm very glad I did since you'll notice I have it on in a good 90% of the pictures. It was chillier than I was expecting it to be and even though I'd packed long-sleeves and long pants, the jacket was definitely needed as well.

We walked up the stairs to the battlements at the top of the castle--this picture was looking straight down from the top. We went up the stairs with three of the teenagers who were with our group. I'm not sure they were 100% on board with this little adventure (small tight staircase that ends a long way up). One of them looked down and said that it "looked like death." He wanted nothing to do with the edge until I stepped up to take this picture. Then since a "girl" could do it, he could too.

I dunno. I never had a strong desire to kiss the Blarney Stone. And this was the line that was waiting to do so. So we passed on that adventure. But I've seen it so that counts.

After we'd stormed the castle, we went to the shops at Blarney for lunch and a little shopping. We picked up a few gifts and I bought some yarn with every good intention of using that to make scarves as gifts. I should get right on that since Christmas is only six months away.
From Blarney, we went to Killarney which is where we stayed the night. Because we were unable to visit St. Paul's Cathedral in London, our guide arranged for us to have Jaunting Car rides through Killarney National Park.

Our driver Denis told some tall tales (and gave some interesting facts as well) along the way.

In Killarney National Park

Bob the horse got a little too close for Paul's comfort on the ride back to the hotel.

Paul found himself a lucky clover.

The next day (June 26) was the only really rainy day that we had on our vacation. We stopped briefly in Adare, billed as "Ireland's Prettiest Village." While Paul and I were walking along the main street, we overheard a man comment to his wife about my umbrella which has shoes all over it. I commented that I received it from Paul on my birthday instead of actual shoes. The lady was laughing in her lovely brogue that she also "loves shoes. Love 'em. Over 100 pairs." So apparently, the love of shoes and long queues for the ladies' toilet are universal.


From Adare, we headed to Limerick. Now I don't know for certain that she wasn't planning to do this but the day before, Mom and I had been joking about everyone needed to write a limerick but it couldn't start "There once was a man from Nantucket" and lo and behold, our tour guide announced that there would be a limerick writing contest in honor of our being in Limerick. Coincidence? Probably but I like to think that I had an original idea. (I came up with two that I'll share later.) On the roads in London and in Limerick, many of the crosswalks say "Look left" or "Look right" probably in hopes of keeping idiot tourists (like me) from getting run over. I don't know how helpful it would be in Gaelic.

Paul at the door to King John's Castle. The very one from Robin Hood fame or the Disney movie that caused me to sing "Prince John, the phony king of England!"

I liked this picture--Mom and Dad and that bright yellow door.

From Limerick, we traveled to Bunratty Castle and Folk Park. The Castle has been restored and furnished as it would have been when occupied and the folk park has cottages from different parts of Ireland that have been refurbished to get a glimpse of what life in 19th century Ireland would have been like. I think it could best be described as "damp." And I decided after this trip that we really need a donkey.

One of the restored farmhouses is 1 1/2 stories. I don't think the previous owners had children who were Paul's size.

One thing that the 21st century has over the 19th century--hand dryers that can be used to try to get things less damp. Such as shoes that have trod through puddles while exploring life in jolly old Ireland. It was mostly successful and I was very thankful.
We drove from Bunratty up to Dublin and checked into our hotel there. Thankfully, we only had to lug things up one flight of stairs this time (and no down was involved until we left). After dinner, we had another round of bitters in the pub with Danny and watch the EuroCup semifinals and I probably know 100% more about soccer than I did before which wasn't much to begin with. I think Dublin was my least favorite stop--I still enjoyed it but it was just a city in many aspects. Of course, we also had a double bed with the shape that can best be described as a "bowl bed" (one that in sunken in the middle) that made sleeping uncomfortable and this is where I ended up sick so my views my might be tainted.
The next morning (June 27), we did a bus tour of Dublin with a stop at St. Patrick's Cathedral and Trinity College to see the Book of Kells, an illuminated manuscript of the Gospels, and the library at the college. I bought a poster with a picture of the library for my office--it's a beautiful space with all the ancient books and arched ceilings. Puts my little space to shame.

After we left Trinity College, we were on our own for the afternoon. Paul just wanted pizza more than anything else. So we found a place oddly enough called Apache Pizza that we think must be an Irish chain (we saw several in Dublin and Limerick) and Paul was a very happy camper for the afternoon. We wandered around the shopping areas looking for another game store like the one we found in Cardiff with no luck. We did go into a toy store along the lines of Toys R Us and saw a shelf full of Wiis. This is why you can't find them in the U.S.--they're all in Ireland.

After we gave up on finding a game store, we set off to the Guinness Brewery for that tour. Not knowing exactly where we were going or having a good map of Dublin, we basically just went in the general direction and ended up taking the very long circuitious route to the Guinness Storehouse (but along the way, we were asked by other tourist for directions. I don't know if they thought we might know or if we looked like locals). We were both disappointed in the tour--we were thinking it would be more along the lines of the Coors Brewery tour where you're actually in the brewery but this was just a self-guided tour of displays about the history of Guinness.

Of course, that didn't stop us from enjoying our free drinks at the end.

And I'll take the credit/blame for this picture as we were leaving Guinness since I had the camera (although Paul was itching to take it himself). Man in capris = manpris. And he's wearing sandals.

That evening, we went walking through the Temple Bar area of Dublin. These three young men were being questioned by the Garda for quite a while--the best we can figure is that they were drinking on the street and were perhaps underage. We didn't want to just take a picture of the shakedown so Paul stood beside them. And I should point out that this picture was taken at about 9:30 in the evening. It stays light until quite late--10:30 or so--and the sun comes up very early--around 4:30--because of the latitude. We only made the mistake of leaving our hotel curtains open once.

One of the pubs in the Temple Bar area. I have windowbox envy. All the flowers in planters, which were every place we went, were so lovely. It's made me want to redo all the planters I have.

We loved the warning labels on the cigarette packs in the U.K. and Ireland. There is no beating around the bush here. No namby-pamby Surgeon's General warning. They just give it to you straight. Because smoking is no longer allowed in pubs, everyone congregates outside the doors with their pints and their smokes. It is possible to pick up a pack-a-day habit just walking around Dublin.

The next morning (June 28) we left for Larne, Northern Ireland for our ferry trip over to Scotland. This was a very long travel day as we went from Dublin to Larne over to Scotland on the ferry and then across Scotland to Edinburgh. On the drive to Larne, we went on the edge of Belfast, past the harbor (or harbour, if you please) where the Titanic was built.

We had a little time in Larne to get off the bus and walk around. As I was walking over to get this picture, the police officer on duty told me that I wasn't supposed to go past a certain point. I apologized saying I only wanted a picture of the sign. Strangely, he was fine with that.

As we were in line to board the ferry, the Border Patrol (or equivolant since I'm not sure what they're called in the U.K.) did a random search of luggage and mine was one of the ones selected. It was a more lax process than in the U.S. since we were able to open our bags for the officers, chat with them, probably could have helped them look for stuff (although I didn't try). Not sure what they were looking for but they didn't find anything and we were able to board the high-speed ferry that took us to Cairnryan, Scotland.